vendredi 18 mai 2012

Dakar take 2


A few Thursdays ago, we left UGB and Saint Louis at six in the morning to head to Dakar for the Global Greens conference. Although we’re still not sure exactly what Global Greens is, we gathered that it’s a political movement (connected to the Green Parties of the world) that focuses most of its attention on the environment and keeping the planet clean. Also at the conference were the Global Young Greens, who focus on the same thing but house younger members, from their teens into their twenties. Each member in Global Greens and Global Young Greens is involved in the movement in their respective countries. At the conference, there were people from all over the world: the US, Brazil, France, Ukraine, Japan, the Philipines, the Congo, Kenya, Uganda, Senegal, and even Australia, and that’s only some. Each year the conference is held in a different country, and this year it happened to be held in Dakar while we were here in Senegal. Since our Senegal adviser, Papa Meissa Dieng, was responsible for much of the organization of the conference, he invited us to come as guests (you weren’t allowed in unless you had a lanyard and name tag).
By this time, we were almost three months into our stay here in Senegal, and pretty much over the worst part of the culture shock. But stepping past the gate of the hotel and walking into this conference was a whole different kind of culture shock. All of a sudden, while we had only been seeing the occasional tubaab (white, tourist) on the street, we were hit with at least a hundred at one time. We felt like we were in a different world; no one we met offered their hand for us to shake as is polite in Senegal, there were people walking around looking like stereotypical tourists—bucket hats, sunglasses, cargo shorts with long socks and Tevas, cameras around their necks— and weirdest of all people who didn’t know where we were from spoke to us in English. We had gotten so used to speaking to people we didn’t know in French, we continued to do it at the conference almost like a reflex. That first day we wandered around for a while confused and feeling like we were in a dream, and forgetting that we shouldn’t talk about someone in earshot because chances are they would understand what we were saying. But by the second and third day of the conference, we had met a bunch of people—some extremely nice, and some very important. The unfortunate part was that if we saw these people out on the streets of Dakar getting tricked by vendors with their Canons around their necks and the smell of sunscreen and bug spray radiating off their bodies, we wouldn’t be able to escape the fact that we knew them.
The rest of the weekend we went all over Dakar. We went to the African Renaissance Statue and were able to go inside of it, where there was a museum filled with art and history and a time line of Africa’s great achievements as a continent and the influence it had on important landmarks and education all over the world. Next we took an elevator all the way up to the man’s head, where you can look out the windows and see the ocean on one side and much of Dakar on the other.
Another day we went to the huge market near Independence Place to buy presents and cloth and a few other things. While we were trying to find these things near the center, we suddenly saw a bunch of flashing lights and a crowd forming around the rotary near the market. Next, a bunch of black SUVs drove into the center, and we were told that it was Macky Sall, the recently democratically-elected president of Senegal, and his caravan of protection. In a matter of seconds, the street near the market went from being normally crowded to being packed with people, running towards the circle to catch a glimpse of the president.  And then he was gone, and the massive crowd disappeared, and I went back to trying to find a pair of jeans. We ended the day with buying ice cream at a place called N’ice Cream, and naturally I had to get the Obama flavor. We walked with our ice cream to the coast and stood on a cliff while eating, looking out at the Atlantic Ocean and the coastline. That night we went to a concert at a bar in the city and saw Didier Awadi, a Senegalese rapper and apparently one of the most well-known and respected hip-hop artists in West Africa. And on Monday night, one of the most successful and globally known Senegalese singers, Youssou Ndor, played a concert in the center of Dakar in celebration of the victory of his candidate for the presidency (after he found out he couldn’t run himself), Macky Sall. Dakar was packed for this concert, and the closest we were able to get was behind the stage a couple hundred yards back, but luckily this was close enough to see flashes of Youssou Ndor as he walked across the stage.
            By the same time the next day, I was on a bus a couple hours into the 20-hour trip through Gambia and to the Casamance for Easter vacation.

Driving into Dakar
Stade Leopold Sedar Senghor
Global Greens Conference
Beach in Dakar near the conference
N'ice Cream


African Renaissance Monument

View from the steps
Artwork inside the monument
                                                                  
View of baby from the top of the statue
Entire quarter being constructed
View from the top

jeudi 1 mars 2012

Djoudj and Lutting

        For our first day-excursion, we went to the National Bird Sanctuary in Djoudj, which is about 45 minutes from campus, and according to our guide is one of the largest bird sanctuaries in the world. Although we saw mostly birds, we also got to see some warthogs, crocodiles, and pythons.

                                                        On the way there







                                                           Baby crocodile



     
        Lutting is a hugely popular sport in Senegal, which is sort of like wrestling except with a spiritual factor added in. Lutters wear special gris-gris and do rituals before matches, which are given to them by marabouts. The more good energy you have on your side, the more likely you are to win. This is why it's common before matches to see the men pouring different liquids over their heads and things like that. The other week we went to a photo exhibit on lutting at the French Institute.



samedi 25 février 2012

Concerts

We've been going to a lot of concerts since we've been here. Some traditional, some reggae, and some unique mixes and styles. The first concert we went to was at the French Cultural Center in the city. The band was made up of a bunch of brothers who also go to the University Gaston Berger.





The second concert we went to was at a restaurant/bar on the island of Saint Louis. Unfortunately this was also the day that the taxis were on strike. The university is about a 15 minute drive from the city, so walking all the way is not usually an option and would take hours. Stella, Bachir, our friend Moïse, and I walked to the exit of the university not knowing how we would get into town, and were lucky enough to see a coach bus parked at the gate. The driver was nice enough to drive us as far as he was going, at which point we got out and started walking in the dark. Not only were the taxis on strike, but all vehicles were, so every car that passed--which was not many-- was already packed with people. We even tried to catch a ride on a family's donkey cart with no luck. Eventually a car stopped for us and took us all the way into the city, where the streets were deserted because of the strike. Everyone who was in the city was watching Senegal's game vs. Equatorial Guinea in the 2012 Africa Cup of Nations, so we joined the crowd and ate dinner at a local fast-food sandwich shop while watching the game. The last few minutes were really exciting, and after every good or bad play you could hear cheers or yells in all directions from the other stores and restaurants on the street. Unfortunately, Senegal ended up losing and was out of the tournament.
The concert ended up being my favorite by far, and after it was over, we went to get something to eat and then started walking back across the empty bridge, hoping for a ride, which eventually came and dropped us off right outside our dorms.


A few weekends ago was le Festival National des Arts et de la Culture (FESNAC) in Saint Louis. We went to the opening ceremony, where each region of Senegal was represented kind of like in the Olympics, and then we went to a concert right next to the market before the bridge to the island. Although the concert was scheduled for 9, it didn't get going until midnight, and even then it took 45 minutes for the band to set up, then play one song and get their equipment off stage. This happened two more times, but is pretty normal, so we had a good time. The music at this concert was more traditional and varied depending on the region the band was from.




We also went to a concert at the French Cultural Center by BOGOSTYLE, a reggae singer, and his band.



Our friend Bachir has also been having concerts for his slam poetry at high schools around Saint Louis.








dimanche 12 février 2012

First couple weeks in Saint Louis

          Julia and her friend Bachir have been very helpful to us lately, and they came to Saint Louis our first weekend here and invited us to the beach. Julia went on the program two years ago, where she met Bachir at UGB. They came and took us to the beach on the coast, and we relaxed there and swam in the Atlantic. They showed us a couple good places to eat in the city, and took us to the French Cultural Center where there are lots of events and concerts and art exhibits that we could go to. On Sunday they were nice enough to take us around St. Louis and help us buy all the things that we needed. Because Bachir grew up in St. Louis, he knew where to go to get the things we needed, how much they should cost, and how to barter and get the price down. We bought things like mosquito nets, a fan, and soap to hand-wash our clothes with. Throughout the weekend, they told us need-to-know things about the city and the university, and also told us some history of St. Louis, as well as introduced us to a couple people on campus who we could trust.
On Saturday night we ate fatayas and chawarmas on a bench near the river that we bought for no more than 600 cfas, which is just a little over a dollar. Behind us we saw young boys outside under the streetlights chanting verses from the Qur’an while rocking back and forth. Bachir told us that these boys studied under a marabout, and were the same young boys that we would see walking around the streets asking tourists and adults for money. The boys would then bring whatever they got back to the marabout and either get rewarded or punished depending on whether or not they collected enough. It was information like this that gave us a lot of knowledge about the city, and we’re lucky and grateful that Julia and Bachir came to St. Louis and helped us so much. 
            At the university, we’ve been able to find our way to a few key places, such as the academic buildings, each other’s dorms, the dining halls, and small boutiques where we can buy necessities. The food at the university is not always awful (in my opinion), but from what we hear it gets boring because there is a total of about 10 dishes that they serve on a regular basis, at which point we can go to one of the private restos around campus for a bit more money and get something different. For the school restos, you need to buy meal tickets, which cost only 15 to 30 cents.  

                                  Donkeys outside our window that woke me up
                                                On the Pont Faidherbe
                                        View from the roof of Michaela's dorm

                                                               Bachir

                                                        Pont Faidherbe
                              Clarence, the stray dog who followed us everywhere